Have you ever made the same hat and created 4 different looks? With the Mystic Beanie pattern, that’s just what you can do! It’s all in how you change your color sequence. Someone will think you needed several different crochet patterns to make these hats but nope…….just one.
Once again this beanie hat is made from the bottom up. One thing that I did differently with this hat than Morning Frost or Country Appeal was to add a few decrease rounds. The stitching didn’t allow for a smooth gathering at the top like I wanted on the Mystic beanie, so I tried a couple of rounds of decrease stitches and really liked it. So…if you like the decrease rounds, you could easily incorporate them into the other two hats as well.
#1 Key Ingredient – When I created my band, I crocheted 72 rows which made 20” for me. After joining my band on round 1, I made 72 sc around the band. If you need more or less rows to meet your desired width, that’s okay. Just remember in order for the stitching to come out right, your initial sc round must be divisible by 4. For example, if it took you 63 rows to achieve 20”, you would need to make sure you had 64 sc around for your first round. Another example would be if it took you 68 rows to achieve 20”, crochet 68 sc around for your first round.
Hint: If this is your first experience working with a hat from the bottom up, don’t close the page! You can do this, I promise. It’s much easier than you think and at the end, you might even like it better! Just remember, when you start working the hat, the body may look “too big”. No worries. Once you close the top, it will fit nice and snug just as if you’ve worked it from the top down.
The instructions for the pattern are for the solid version. Once you are familiar with the pattern, scroll to the bottom of the page to the thumbnail pictures with the color change sequence instructions.
If you are on Ravelry, I would love if you would place this hat in your favorites or queue the pattern. It will help everyone to see the pattern and share in the fun! (smiling)
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- Red Heart Soft, or any worsted weight #4 yarn, 150-175 yards.
- Hook Size – J/6.0
- Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.
Band – 1 sc row (width) and 2 rows of sc (length) = 1”
8 st and 5-6 rows = 2″
The instructions for this hat, as given, will fit an adult measuring approximately 22”. The hat can easily be adjusted to meet other sizes. When I completed the band, the 72 rows measured approximately 20” and fit perfectly on my model measuring 22”. There is a great guide on head measurements provided by Cre8tion Crochet. It will give you the average size of head measurements (including length) from child to adult. I use this reference a lot as Lorene does a great job of thoroughly explaining the specifics required to successfully making a hat that fits.
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sl st – slip stitch
Notes: In the pattern, I always will tell you to sl st in the last stitch. Watch for the instructions in one of the rounds because it will begin with telling you to also sl st in the next stitch. This is CORRECT and will help you be successful with the pattern.
Leave a long tail (4”) before making your beginning ch. This will be used to join the band of the hat.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across, ch 1 turn. (5 st)
Row 2: sc in first sc and each sc across, ch 1 turn (5 st)
Row 3 – 72: Repeat row 2
At the end of row 72 do not cut the yarn. Take you tapestry needle and join the ends of your rows using the whipstitch method. Insert your hook once again and begin with round 1.
Body of hat:
Round 1: sc evenly around, sl st to first sc (72st)
Round 2: ch 1 and sc in same sp, *skip next sc, 3 dc in next sc , skip next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from *to*, join with sl st to sc.
Round 3: Ch 1 and 3 fpdc around sc in the round below, *skip next dc, sc in next dc, skip next dc, 3 fpdc around sc in round below, repeat from *to* sl st to first st,
Round 4: sl st in next st, ch 1 and sc in same sp, skip next dc, *3 fpdc around sc in round below, skip next dc, sc in next dc*, repeat from *to*, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 5-16: repeat rounds 3 & 4
Round 17: ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next st and around, join with sl st to first sc. (72st)
WE WILL NOW BEGIN TO DECREASE:
Round 18: ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, *sc in next 2 dc, sc2tog*, repeat from *to*, join by sl st in first sc (60 st)
Round 19: ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, *sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog*, repeat from *to*, join by sl st in first sc (48 st)
Do not fasten off. Measure out enough yarn to weave through every other sc. I’m an overachiever and probably cut around 20” of material.
Take your tapestry needle and weave under the loops of every other sc around, pull the yarn tightly. This will close up the hat. Sew the top of the hat with a few stitches for security. Fasten off.
Optional Round: Holding the hat upside down, insert hook into bottom row and form a sl st, ch 1 and sc in same st, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72st)
Crochet 2 rounds using the same color then alternate the color on the next round. So, crochet rounds 2 and 3 using the same color yarn and change your color on round 4.
Alternate your color every round.
Alternate your color every 2 rounds. So, crochet rounds 2 and 3 using the same color yarn and rounds 4 and 5 are the same color yarn. This hat will not end on round 16, but rather on 17. One more round didn’t make that much difference in the length of the hat as you can see from the picture.
I hope you enjoy all the different styles you can get from the Mystic beanie pattern! I would love for you to share your photos with me too!
Have a great day and be blessed!